Double Crochet & Shell Beanie with Flower

 

This double crochet and shell beanie is cute and feminine.  It is fairly fast to complete if you are already familiar with the stitches and have experience reading from a pattern.  It is great for a last minute gift as you can make it in a day.

This hat is good for beginners and intermediate crochet skill levels. If you are a beginner I would like to encourage to try this, I believe this hat is something you can do, it just might take you a bit longer.  

One thing that I have found to be helpful when I crochet are stitch markers.  In this pattern, it makes it easier if you can use a marker to identify the first stitch in your current row (when crocheting in a round pattern it can sometimes look like it all blends together if you're not careful).  

Do not fear if you don't have any official stitch markers because a short piece of yarn (in a different color preferably), a safety pin, a bobby pin, or even a paper clip will do the trick.

I also like to print out my patterns so that I can mark off each row that I've completed with pencil so I can quickly find my place on the pattern when I am either beginning a new row or starting my project again after it was put away.

The beanie is made in two parts, first you will make the beanie itself, and then you will make the flower.

DC & SHELL BEANIE PATTERN

For this project, I used a size H (5mm) hook for the hat I'm wearing in the photo above, but I will make it with a size G (4mm) hook next time to make it a little more snug so it doesn't easily fall off.  You might also try using the hook size recommended on the yarn you purchase. 

* The beginning of each row will start with 3 chain stitches and this will count as your first DC throughout the entire pattern.


* Shell Stitch = DC, DC in same stitch, Ch. 1, DC X 2 in same stitch.  (That ends up being 4 DC's in one stitch from the previous row)


Ch = Chain
St = Stitch
DC = Double Crochet
Sl St = Slip Stitch

To begin, place a slip knot around your hook with your yarn.

1. Ch 5, join to first st (with a Sl St) to form a small circle.
2. Ch 3 (counts as 1st DC - *you might want to place a stitch marker in the 3rd chain loop, it will help when you come to the end of this row - Continue to do this in the 3rd look of your Ch 3 at the beginning of each row), DC x 11 in the hole in the middle of the circle you made in row #1, Sl St in the third chain of the first DC (where you placed your stitch marker)- this will close off your row - (12 total DC)
3. Ch 3, DC back into the same space in row 2 that you did your ch 3, ch. 1, DC X 2 into same space (this counts as your first Shell St for row 3), skip next St, DC in the 2nd St from your shell St, DC in same loop, Ch 1, DC X 2 in same St, skip next St, Shell St in the 2nd St from your last Shell St, do this all around until you are back at the beginning. Sl St into the 3rd loop of your first DC (this is where your stitch marker should be) -(6 Shell stitches total)
4. Sl St into the next st., Sl St into the Ch. 1 space (the gap in the middle of the shell from row #3), Ch. 3 & place stitch marker (this will be the first DC of your first shell for row 4), DC in the same Ch 1 space, Ch 1, DC X 2 in same space, skip 2 stitches, DC X 2 in the large space between shells in row 3, Ch 1, DC X 2 in the same space. (Continue placing a Shell St in every Ch 1 space from row 3 shells and then again in the large space between each Shell St in row 3). When you get to the end, Sl St into the 3rd loop of your first DC -(12 Shell stitches total)
5. Sl St into the next St, Sl St into the Ch 1 space (the gap in the middle of the shell), Ch 3, DC in same space, Ch 1, DC X 2 in same space, skip the next DC St (from row #4), DC into the next DC loop following the Ch 1 space from row #4, DC X 2 in next DC St (this is your increase), Shell St in the Ch 1 space, DC in next DC st., DC X 2 into the next DC, Shell St. into the Ch 1 space, repeat all the way around until you get back to the beginning. Sl St into the 3rd loop of your first DC - (6 Shell stitches & 6 sets of 3 DC total)
6. Sl St into the next stitch, Sl St into the Ch 1 space (the gap in the middle of the shell), Ch 3, DC in same space, Ch 1, DC X 2 in same space (1st Shell), DC in next DC, DC in next DC, DC X 2 in next DC (this is your increase, so the clusters of 3 DC between shells from row #5 will now be clusters of 4 in row #6), Shell into the next Ch. 1 sp (the middle of a shell from row 5), DC in next DC, DC in next DC, DC X 2 in next DC, repeat all the way around until you get back to the beginning. Sl St into the 3rd loop of your first DC -(6 Shell stitches & 6 sets of 4 DC total)
7. Sl St into the next stitch, Sl St into the Ch. 1 space (the gap in the middle of the shell), Ch 3, DC in same space, Ch 1, DC X 2 in same space (1st Shell), (you should now be at a cluster of 4 DC from row 6 below) DC in next DC, DC in next DC, DC in next DC, DC X 2 in next DC (this is your increase, so the clusters of 4 DC between shells from row #6 will now be clusters of 5 in row #7), Shell into the next Ch. 1 sp (the middle of a shell from row #6), DC in next DC, DC in next DC, DC in next DC, DC X 2 in next DC (this is your increase), repeat all the way around until you get back to the beginning. Sl St into the 3rd loop of your first DC -(6 Shell stitches & 6 sets of 5 DC total)  **NOTE** Continue increasing 1 st on each following row (in the DC clusters after each Shell St) until you have a circle that fits the crown of your head out to the widest part of your head.  If you place the heel of your hands directly above your ears and stick your fingers straight up, the crown of your hat should just touch your fingers (if it does not, keep doing rows of increase until it does). Once the crown is the right size, take a note of how many DC's you have in the clusters between each Shell St, (this will be the number of DC you will use in row #8).
8. Once it is wide enough, continue with the same pattern of Shell St/DC that you used in row #7 only row #8 will not do the increase in the last DC of each DC cluster.  So if your last row was a Shell st, DC X 7, Shell St, DC X 7, etc... You will now make the next row exactly the same (with 7 DC's between each Shell St) until the beanie is the desired length.
9. You can either allow the beanie to be finished as is, or you can add 2 rows of 1/2 Double Crochet stitches and tie off and weave in your yarn end.

I found a great instructional video for this beanie on Youtube, it does not contain a written pattern but you can watch her crocheting each stitch and I think it will make following my pattern easier. 

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5mQ6sQTu7Ko&feature=plcp&context=C3f8d423UDOEgsToPDskKq6nd0HMxUunFcsWxvVsF7

You can now choose if you want to leave the beanie as is or try to crochet a flower to be placed on the side.

ROSE FLOWER PATTERN

For this project I will make it with a size G (4mm) hook.

To begin, place a slip knot around your hook with your yarn.

  

1. Make a Ch about 2 feet long (approx 60cm or 24 inches)
2. SC in second Ch from hook, SC in next Ch, continue SC until you get to the end of the entire length of row #1. Ch 3, turn work.
3. SC in 3rd St from hook, Ch 3, SC in 3rd St from hook, Ch 3, SC in 3rd St from hook, continue all the way across until you reach the end, (if you don't have the exact right number of stitches left, it is ok because this end of the flower will not be seen, just be sure to SC in last St), Ch 3, Turn work.
4. DC X 3 in the large loop (created by the Ch 3 in row #3), Ch 3, Sl St into same large loop (this is the first petal), Sl St into next large loop, Ch 3, DC x 3 (in same space as Sl St), Sl St in same large loop, continue to the end of the entire length of your Ch's from row #1 (end with a Sl St in the last large loop).  Leave the last loop and then cut the yarn so that it is 15-20 inches long.  Place your hook back in the last loop and Ch 1.  Then pull that loop until the yarn end that you just cut comes through, pull in snug, this will tie off your work.  Then sew in the short piece of yarn into your project (sew it approximately 2" and then trim the remaining yarn with your scissors).
5. Thread the remaining long piece of yarn into a yarn needle (they have a larger hole to put yarn in).  Lay your project in front of you so that the long yarn is coming out of the left side.   Begin to tightly roll it onto itself, roll from left to right, make sure the bottom row of chain stitches (row #1) is staying even as you roll it.  Roll it about 3 times and then take your needle and sew from one side of the bottom SC through to the other and then sew it back to the other side, do this twice. 
6. Turn your project upside down so that the bottom is facing up (row #1 should be on top and row #4 on the bottom).
7. Start wrapping the remaining 'tail' around the middle of the flower (which you made in step #5), as you wrap, slightly lower the 'tail' so that your first row of chain stitches (row #1) is wrapping just below your row of single crochet (row #2) on the middle of the flower.
8. Once you've wrapped the tail about 1/4 of the way around the center part of the flower, stop wrapping it, twist the 'tail' petals slightly towards you so that it is almost perpendicular to the center part of the flower (this makes it lay flatter), and then use your needle to sew the 'tail' to the center.  Begin sewing from the center piece, going in to the bottom of the single crochet (row #2 on the center piece) and coming up through the chain (row #1 on the 'tail'). Continue slowly wrapping, twisting, and sewing, be sure to flip the flower over to the right side as you go along to be sure it is looking good.  Do this all the way around until you have finished the flower.
9. Keep the needle in your remaining yarn end and use it to attach the flower to your beanie.

Here is the instructional video for this flower by the same woman who did the instructional video for the beanie.  I really enjoy her video's.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=94vYpcZ3W64&feature=player_embedded#!

If you have any questions, please feel free to send them in the comment section below and I will do my best to answer them as quickly as possible.

I hope you have enjoyed this pattern and most of all that you enjoy your new beanie!

Canola Oil - Natural Hair Conditioner

Looking for a fast fix for your dry or frizzy hair that doesn't require a trip to the salon or pricey hair treatments?

I am happy to report that there is likely an item that you have right in your kitchen that will do just what you need.

Canola Oil

Canola oil is a particular type of rapeseed oil, identified by its low--less than 2 percent--erucic acid content. Canadian rapeseed oil producers coined the term "canola" in the late 1970s as an abbreviation for Canadian Oil, Low Acid. According to the "Alternative Field Crops Manual," canola oil is high in both oil and protein--two ingredients that play a role in restoring hair's health.  This is a great Hair Conditioner!  

Directions: 

• Heat the canola oil to a warm (not hot) temperature...about 1/2 to 1 cup, obviously if you have extra long hair you will need more oil.  (1 cup is usually good for shoulder length hair, adjust accordingly)
• Apply it to your hair, roots, and scalp and massage it in generously.  For safety, you should do this over a sink as oil dripped in the tub can create a dangerously slippery surface when showering.
• Put on a shower cap or wrap plastic wrap (several layers is best to keep the oil in) around your hair making sure it is completely covered.
• Wrap an old towel around your head over the plastic wrap.  This will help to trap in your natural body heat and keep the oil warm.  Leave it on for at least 20 minutes, an hour is better if you have the time. For deeper conditioning you can substitute the dry towel for a hot damp towel.
• You may want to place another old towel around your shoulders to catch any dripping.
• Rinse your hair and then wash with shampoo.  You may need to repeat the shampoo process, just be sure when shampooing to massage shampoo into your scalp and cover all of your hair.  You will also want to be sure you do an extra good job of rinsing out the shampoo.

This treatment should last about a month, so although it is a process, it is definitely not  one that needs to be repeated daily or even weekly.

**If you get an oil stain on something important, try using regular corn starch.  Sprinkle the dry starch directly on the oil stain and gently pat it in.  If it starts to clump up, sprinkle a little more as this means it is working.  I personally leave it overnight, then brush off the corn starch and wash as usual.  It is recommended that you would wash these items separate from your regular wash.

Homemade Cuticle Oil

Do you have dry cuticles that need conditioning?  Having conditioned cuticles makes your nails look better and can also help you to avoid the dreaded hangnail.  Cutting cuticles can make you more susceptible to bacterial infection, so moisturizing them is a better option.


If you don't have or don't want to spend money on expensive cuticle oil then you don't need to look any further than your kitchen for the solution.  Although there are many types of cuticle treatment that have a large list of ingredients, this simple solution works.

Begin by soaking your hands in warm soapy water to clean them and prep them for conditioning.

Then you have two options: First, you can simply just take olive oil and rub it into your cuticles, or Second, you can soak your cuticles in olive oil for 30 min's!  Yep...that oil under the kitchen counter will work as a great moisturizer for your cuticles!  If you need to remove some of the cuticle them mix some sugar with your olive oil and rub into your cuticles.






It's that easy!